Anti-fashion movement era began around the late 19th century and evolved through the different fashion periods through the 20th century up until today. And I cannot see it diminishing, if anything it grows into an awareness movement and a reflection of Global warming and planet Earth's necessity for change in human behavior.
It started with less success by dressmakers implementing more simplistic styles and timeless pieces. However, it did not have much of a demand due to the individuals who could afford it, changed their clothing frequently and therefore influenced others as it brought a sense of status and evaluability to one self-expression.
Back in 1903 ANNA MUTHESIUS, a German concert singer, published the book “Women’s Own Dress”. She believed that women should break away from the Paris dictates and create their taste and style. As per “Fashion Ultimate Book of Costume and Style”, DK, page 236 – “Only then would they be able to make suitable sartorial choices and design clothes to suit themselves, using aesthetically pleasing textiles and patterns.”
The movements of anti-fashion parallel fashion movements thereafter recognition of dressmaker’s realization of the need for taste in individuality.
o The flapper movement which began in the 1920s was the movement of young women who broke away from traditional expectations and craved for sense of freedom with rebellious attitudes. Implementing short skirts (up to the knee, and not to be mixed with the mini-skirt era which comes later on), bobbed hair-cuts, breaking free from corsets, and following the jazz music era. This comes after the 1st World War when women had to take multiple roles in the disturbed World. If you want to find out a little insight into this movement follow this link - Flappers - 1920s, Definition & Dress | HISTORY.
o Counterculture and Hippie movement began in the 1960s when natural dyes, second-hand and ethnic-inspired clothing came to life, intertwined with anti-war protest and civil rights and environmentalism importance. As per Marshall Mcluhan Harper’s Bazaar, 1968, quote: “Today, nothing is out, because everything is in. Every costume from every era is now available to everyone.” The era that consumed the idea of experimentation, especially with psychedelic drugs; bright clothing patterns reflecting LSD experience. The pieces were non-gender specific and often couples were wearing the same outfits. The blue jean era started were it was no longer specific to worker wear. Hippies were spreading the flower power and the feel of beauty and idyllic freedom. Individualism was the key to the movement.
o Ever-lasting influence of the punk rock era began in the 1970s influenced by Sex Pistols and other rock bands. Shows details of safety pins, and DIY techniques in the name of rejecting the status quo. Vivienne Westwood became one of the most rebellious designers, speaking through the experimentation of provocative details and sending political messages later on. The corset became one of the key details along with other body-shaping pieces. Masculinity was implemented within the designs, ripped jeans and T-shirts were bringing individual outspokenness and voice. It was a mix of rebellious attitudes in fashion.
Later anti-fashion designers emerged in the 1980s, amongst them were Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, and others who introduced avant-garde and deconstructed styles.
o The grunge movement emerged in the 1990s when it was influenced by Pearl Jam – one of the original Seattle grunge movement. It emerged as a consequence of excess during the 1980s. “Grunge made it acceptable to pull the sleeves of your second-hand cardigan down over your hands in a scruffy gesture of social alienation.”- Page 412, FASHION the ultimate book of costume and style, DK. This was the time when were NIRVANA band emerged and added to influence with heavy metal, and punk rock music. They performed in ripped jeans, oversized sweaters style, and CONVERSE trainers, which then emerged in the mainstream of street style.
o Normcore, which emerged further during the early 2010s was about ordinary and functional, comfort-driven styles with less distinctiveness, highlighting the simplicity and denial of fashion-driven trends.
o During the late 2010s Minimalism and Sustainable Fashion emerged vocally across the Globe. The Movement has hit the highest levels and people started to become more and more aware of social media as a tool to help individuals and campaigners speak louder and further to be heard. Social injustice is a top subject amongst designers, brands, and consumers. The responsibility is pushed onto policy makers and brands are demanded for transparent approaches so the consumer can make the right choices driven by their principles and values. This conscious movement is ongoing and not to be seen dispensed any time soon. Second clothing shops including charity are growing at a rapid pace, including individual sales on such vintage online marketplaces. From minimalism, it will and is growing into experimentation experiences and expressions of one's individuality.
I am a true believer that we have already generated materials enough for the entire Globe to have access to re-create and experiment with something completely new. The organic ways are established slowly with side symptoms of greenwashing. However, with the right approaches the campaigners for a better future Planet will achieve the right balance, eventually. Overconsumption is a mass issue and should not be left to deal with by the consumer but at its root before something materializes into mass streamlined manufacturing. Therefore established designers and brand houses must be pushed towards following strict regulations. Fast – fashion should be perceived as an ill – disease and addiction to some extent. ‘Fashionable’ should change its meaning and bend towards the healthiest version – the tastefulness of the individual instead of trend-driven approaches.
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